Today’s forecast called for wet weather late in the day…so I rode in the morning. Mapped out a route into the area north of here called “Dentelles de Montmirail”. That really describes the rock formations in these forests: huge limestone formations sticking up like teeth …I THINK that’s why it’s called the Dentelles area. Get it: Dentelles = Dentures =Teeth = PointyRockFormationsStickingUp? Mon Dieu, I’m starting to have a French sense of humor. YIKES!
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| Distant shot of the Dentilles - later in the day |
Riding was just as good as possible, and I even found a new road out of our town I hadn’t used yet. Went through Le Thor, which was unremarkable because it was all industrial and heavy warehouse businesses on the outskirts. BUT - then I got to the town center, and the main road narrowed down to a tiny two lane pavement right through an ancient city wall and gate, into a sweet ancient living city, as pretty as any we’d seen lately. Just smaller, but with everyday life and business and schools going on inside. Like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get.
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| Flower fields near Le Thor - I wondered if they grow the flowers locally, or flew them in from Colombia...now I know. |
Best French-speaking experience for me happened at a bike shop in Velleron. I passed it at speed, in a low ancient stone building near the town square. Looked like a pro-level shop, not a tourist bike place. I went back to try to buy a SMALL bottle of chain lube, as my bike was a little noisy. The owner was working on another guy’s bike while that guy waited…so we started talking to kill time. GREAT! He spoke almost no English, and my French is almost non-existent, but we had a super exchange because we both spoke “Velo” - the bike worked again at getting me in contact with real people on the trip. He’s a retired salesman, used to fly constantly between France and towns in northeast USA ,and Quebec. Now he rides: guy was like a rock, and using a beautiful carbon-fiber bike which was almost repaired. We joked about my suitcase bike, and he and the shop owner were amazed at the size of the cassette gear on my rear-wheel: it’s a 40 tooth special weapon, to make sure I can do all the mountain riding, including Mt. Ventoux. Anyhow, a good 1/2 hour was spent, chain put in good shape, au revoir’s said all around (I also used my new stuff: say “Et vous aussi” when anyone says “Bon Jour nee” to you…and I remembered it in time to say it!)
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| SERIOUS bike shop near Mt. Ventoux! |
Back out on the road, beautiful country town of Pernes-Les-Fountaines (40 fountains scattered around the centre ville, thus the name), but I came to a T-intersection with no signs or idea where to go. While looking at my map, the most MIRACULOUS thing happened. A local French cyclist, out in street clothes on a city bike, STOPPED AND ASKED ME IF I NEEDED HELP!!!!! You have no idea what a big deal this is! We’ve learned, and come to accept, that most French people are very private, and do not inject themselves into situations, conversations, or settings that do not directly concern them. For someone to approach me, a stranger on the side of the road, and actually INITIATE a CONVERSATION, AND offer to HELP…..wow! This was a huge win. Especially when he spoke slowly enough that I could understand the instructions in French (well, not ALL of them, but the “turn right, then take the left fork…” parts). I got to use my new thank you and goodbye words, and we parted. All I can say is RIDE A BIKE when you travel, and wonderful things happen.
The instructions were perfect, I got on track to Monteaux then up to Loriol-du-Comtat. Started to realize my legs weren’t going to be good for the Dentelles (sometimes you can just feel you ain’t got the energy for your ambitions!), so I changed plans. Called Lynn to drive out to meet me at Maulaucene for lunch and car-based further explorations. She was in the town, having some conversations of her own with locals while shopping for souvenirs when I called.
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| Lynn and Backstreet apartments, Malaucene |
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| Malaucene, Hotel Blueberry fountain, lunch break |
This worked great! She met me on the road, then we got some eats at a neat place called Hotel Blueberry in the middle of town, and scoped out the place. Malaucene is the destination city AFTER riding to the top of Mt. Ventoux this Saturday, and Lynn’s planning to meet me there with the car - so this was a good practice run. What a neat little town, FULL of cyclists all looking pretty serious and happy. Everybody must come to ride this mountain sometime in their lives, I guess. and they all seem to be here now.
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| Le Barroux from close up below: what a view from the castle, and houses all scattered beneath it |
We found a beautiful hilltop village called Le Barroux we both agreed to live in during our next life, and then drove to Bedoin, then home.
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| Bedoin Cafe, at the foot of Mount Ventoux: For sure, keep calm and EAT PASTA, just like the sign says!! |
Mission accomplished: home before bad weather, incredible riding, fun day, French-speaking encounters of a friendly kind, beautiful scenery, and Lynn's homemade ratatouille for supper. Glad to be alive.
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| Old Roman aqueduct near Carpentras on way home |
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LINK TO all the photos we took so far, if you'd like to see more:
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